Peel & Stick Application

The following instructions are for PEEL & STICK DECALS supplied by Golden Touch Decals based upon testing of various decal films under actual rod blank application with my techniques and should be adhered to for best results. As you work with these decals, you will develop your own style of application to the point where these steps will become second nature and the application will progress without incident each time you wish to install a decal.

SPECIAL NOTE: Permagloss is not suitable for use over my Peel & Stick decals. It will totally destroy them due to the content of Xylene in the Permagloss.

CLEAN THE DECAL AREA ON THE ROD BLANK : First and foremost, clean the area for the decal with isopropyl alcohol to remove any fingerprints or other contaminants. With Peel & Stick decals, as with waterslide decals, is should be standard practice to apply a thin coat of epoxy on the blank at the location you intend to place the decal. This is especially true for blanks that have a matte finish. This initial coat of epoxy will be necessary as the decal will prevent the epoxy from reaching the matte finished area underneath the decal. Therefore, a “hazy” shadow under the decal will be visible.

CUT DECAL TO SHAPE: Cut the image to the size desired with sharp scissors or a single edge razor blade.  When I print a customer’s order, I usually allow plenty of extra decal film on the ends that will be facing the tip and butt so when fingers and tweezers are used to hold the decal for application, the smudges on the decal can be cut off after the decal has been lightly applied to the blank when checking for proper alignment. Remove the smudged areas or any excess decal film BEFORE using the roller to firmly adhere the decal to the blank.

APPLY THE DECAL TO THE BLANK AREA:   Be careful how you handle each decal. If you have allowed some “extra” film at the edges of the decal, this can be removed with a razor blade before the decal is rolled onto the blank for final application.

Separate the film from the backing paper being careful not to touch the underside of the decal as the fingerprints will definitely adhere. Use SHARP POINTED TWEEZERS to grasp the end of the decal as you remove the balance of the backing paper.

If you are working under a desk lamp or any overhead light, the "STRAIGHT LINE REFLECTION" that forms along the blank can be used as a guide to position the decal-- just make sure the guide line is where you need it.  Let the end of the decal opposite the tweezers touch a spot on the blank at the chosen location and then move the tweezer end to align the decal along the "reflection line" as desired. Lightly touch the decal at the tweezers end and check alignment.                                                     

If the decal alignment looks correct, use a clean finger to lightly rub the decal onto the blank. Start along the reflection line, which should be somewhat close to the middle of the decal, and work outward from the center to each decal edge making sure no air bubbles are trapped under the decal. If you do get an air bubble, use a sewing needle to puncture the bubble and then press out the air. However, it's better to prevent them than to deal with them!

The next step in application is to use a roller to apply more concentrated pressure to properly adhere the decal to the blank. The perfect tool is a small rubber covered roller, or brayer, purchased at an art supply store. A wallpaper seam roller from a paint store will also work well but may need to be covered with masking tape to slightly cushion the face and to keep it from sliding over the surface of the decal.  

This is a very important step for decal application as the roller allows more localized pressure to be applied to the decal and forces the adhesive layer to virtually disappear. The adhesive layer of a peel & stick decal has by design, small hairline marks that become visible when applied to a dark blank. This rolling action makes these marks all but disappear.

Extreme pressure should NOT be applied by SLIDING a hard object across the face of the decal as this will mar the pigment layer of the decal.  But, if you don't have a roller as described, protect the surface of the decal with the slick backing paper that was removed from the decal you are applying. This backing paper is a bit slick and would protect the decal. However, a roller is definitely recommended!

If you desire to place a Peel & Stick decal over a thread worked area, you should apply a finish coat of epoxy sufficient to form a solid foundation on which to adhere the Peel & Stick decal.

APPLY THE FIRST COAT OF FINISH: The initial coat of epoxy over the decal can be applied immediately after the epoxy is mixed or later, after some of the guides have been coated, to allow for a thicker layer of coverage. Be careful when using any form of heat to aid in leveling of the finish over a decal – for obvious reasons!!

The decal, when properly applied to the blank should have nothing other than the epoxy applied over it - NO KRYLON FIXATIVE, NO COLOR PRESERVER, NOTHING, as this only adds layers of potentially non-compatible products that may have a negative effect on the finishing of the decal. If the decal is not lying flat as it should be, then it probably was not installed properly and these additional steps will not correct an inferior installation.

After some time allowing the epoxy to cure you notice a slight waviness or other slight surface imperfection in the area of the decal, DO NOTHING but let it cure-it's not the end of the world if you have followed the application instructions as listed. When the finish has cured to the point it can be touched without leaving marks, (don't test on the rod but on the foil you had the epoxy spread out on), inspect the decal area for blemishes and remove them and pay no attention to the wrinkling! The additional coats of epoxy will cover this properly as one coat of epoxy over a decal area is not enough anyway. At least TWO is necessary and three may not be too many . . .it makes for a nice, deep, durable finish!